Copenhagen Denmark

Radhus (Town Hall). Right in the center of the city, the Town Hall is a good place to start exploration in any direction. Noble statues stand at its entry, on its roof and inside, where, among others, the writer Hans Christian Andersen and the Nobel Prize-winning physicist Niels Bohr are honored. You can visit Jens Olsen's World Clock, with its exact calibration, in the lower portion of the Town Hall Tower. A panoramic view of the city from the top of the tower will require a tour guide. Guided tours in English: Monday-Friday at 3 pm, Saturday 10 am. Tower tours: June-September Monday-Friday at 10 am, noon and 2 pm; Saturday at noon; October-May Saturday tours only. Radhus around 20 DKK; clock only, 10 DKK. Radhuspladsen, phone 33 66 25 82.

 Rosenborg Palace. Built by King Christian IV in the 17th century, Rosenborg manages to be both ornate and cozy. On display are three centuries of royal furnishings, as well as the crown jewels. No explanations are offered as part of the displays, so it's a good idea to purchase one of the guidebooks to the castle at the entrance. Try to visit on sunny days because the castle has no electric lights. A children's pantomime theater in Rosenborg Gardens is free; performances are Tuesday-Sunday at 2 or 3 pm (performances canceled in event of rain). Palace is open May 1 to Aug 1 from 10 am to 3 pm daily, Aug 1 to Sep 21 from 11 am to 3 pm daily; Sep 22 to May 1 from 11 am to 2 pm Tuesday, Friday and Sunday only. Adults 40 DKK, children (under age 15) 10 DKK. 4A Oster Voldgade, phone 33 15 32 86.

 Amalienborg Palace. Winter home to the royal family since 1794, the palace is actually composed of four identical rococo structures. Amalienborg Palace Square, with the magnificent equestrian statue of Frederik V, is one of the most beautiful squares in Europe and a major tourist attraction. Every day at noon there is the ceremonial changing of the guard. As an added bonus, if you arrive on a day when the royal family is in residence, you can witness 70 guards in high furred helmets march toward this ensemble from their barracks at Rosenborg Palace.

 Little Mermaid. Statue inspired by Hans Christian Andersen's famous tale. The pensive maiden sits on rocks just a few feet into the harbor on the north side of the city. She can be reached by a short stroll from Langelinie -- a picturesque quay that surrounds the Kastellet (Citadel), a 17th-century fort -- or via one of the Mermaid buses that depart frequently from the Radhuspladsen (Town Hall).

 Rundetarn (Round Tower). The panoramic view from the tower is impressive. Constructed in the 17th century as an observatory, it consists of a spiraling ramp that ascends within the structure to the top. June-August, daily 10 am to 8 pm; September-May Monday-Saturday 10 am to 5 pm, Sunday noon to 4 pm. Adults 15 DKK, children 5 DKK. 52A Kobmagergade, phone 33 93 66 60.

 Nyhavn. East of Kongens Nytorv, once a neighborhood where sailors ate, drank and slept. Its nautical heritage is still reflected in its architecture and atmosphere. It has become a magnet for photographers and restaurateurs and a popular starting point for the canal tours.

Ny Carlsberg Glyptotek. Houses both a stunning classical collection and, somewhat incongruously, an assemblage of Danish impressionist and postimpressionist art. The columns and statuary are Etruscan, Roman and Greek. A new wing houses works by French sculptors and painters. The building itself is a work of art and merits a visit (the central palm garden with murmuring fountains was cleverly designed to offer museum visitors a place to relax). Located next to Tivoli. May-August, Tuesday-Sunday 10 am to 4 pm; September-April, Tuesday-Saturday noon to 3 pm, Sunday 10 am to 4 pm. Adults 15 DKK, children free. Wednesdays and Sundays free. 7 Dantes Plads, phone 33 91 10 65.

 Nationalmuseet (National Museum). The largest museum in Scandinavia, displaying Danish artifacts from the Stone Age to the mid 19th century. Included are Viking helmets and battle implements, artifacts from Greenland, Egyptian mummies and extensive royal coin collections. Mid June to mid September Tuesday-Sunday 10 am to 4 pm; mid September to mid June Tuesday-Friday 11 am to 3 pm, Saturday-Sunday noon to 4 pm. Adults around 30 DKK, children free. Located across from the Christiansborg Palace. Frederiksholms Kanal 12, phone 33 13 44 11, fax 33 47 33 30.

 Children's Museum (Bornenes). Located inside the National Museum (above), this is a large area in which children travel a tunnel of sound and light to a typical classroom of the year 1900 as well as to Africa, a medieval castle, a Viking ship and much more. There's also a display of toys from the past 200 years.

 Statens Museum for Kunst (Royal Museum of Fine Arts). Danish and European painting and sculpture. Notable Matisse collection in addition to works by Durer, Rembrandt and Picasso. Tuesday-Sunday 10 am to 4:30 pm, Wednesdays until 9 pm. Adults 30 DKK, children free. Near Rosenborg Palace. Solvgade 48-50, phone 33 91 21 26.

 Louisiana Modern Art Museum. A 19th-century mansion overlooking the sea, this contains works by Giacometti, Henry Moore and Carl-Henning Pedersen. Many sculptures are in the magnificent gardens. About 45 minutes north of Copenhagen in Humlebaek. (Central Railroad Station offers a discount ticket covering train and museum for around 45 DKK; for information, phone 33 14 17 01.) Thursday-Tuesday 10 am to 5 pm, Wednesday 10 am to 10 pm. Adults 48 DKK, children 15 DKK. Gammel Strandvej 13, phone 42 19 07 19.

 Arken Museum of Modern Art. Itself a work of art, this new museum by the sea is built like a ship. Danish and Nordic works as well as art from the rest of the world. Open Apr 1 to Sep 30 Tuesday, Thursday, Friday 10 am to 5 pm, Wednesday 10 am to 10 pm, Saturday-Sunday 10 am to 6 pm. Between Oct 1 and Mar 31 open every day except Monday 10 am to 5 pm. Adults 40 DKK, children 15 DKK. Ishoj Strandpark, 100 Skovvej, phone 43 54 02 22. (Take a train to Ishoj, then Bus 128; it's 30 minutes distant.)

 Eksperimentarium. A hands-on science museum where you can try hundreds of experiments with sound, light, water currents and more. Short demonstrations and special exhibits. Climb a "mountainside" of varying steepness. Monday, Wednesday and Friday 9 am to 5 pm; Tuesday and Thursday 9 am to 9 pm; Saturday-Sunday 11 am to 5 pm. Adults 69 DKK, children 49 DKK, child and adult together, 98 DKK. Next to Tuborg Breweries. Tuborg Havnevej 7, 2900 Hellenip, phone 39 27 33 33.

Denmark's Akvarium (Aquarium). More than 300 types of fish from various seas. North Sea species are an unusual sight for many visitors. A lovely setting across from the beach. March-October, daily 10 am to 6 pm, November-February, daily 10 am to 4 pm. Adults 50 DKK, children 30 DKK. North of Copenhagen. Strandvejen, Charlottenlund Fort Park, phone 39 62 32 83.

Tivoli Gardens. The amusement park and garden that was said to have inspired Walt Disney is not to be missed. It's a park of fantasy, filled with flowers and colorful lights. It's a pleasure even for an afternoon stroll. But Tivoli also offers rides, a pantomime theater, bands, a concert hall and fine restaurants serving everything from hot dogs (polser) to gourmet foods. Although Tivoli is fun during the day, the atmosphere takes on an especially magical glow at night. Watch for the fireworks at midnight on Wednesday, Friday and Saturday. April-September, daily 10 am to midnight. Winter season 1997 (Nov 22-Dec 22) boasts a Christmas market with more than 50 tables and tents. Adults around 44 DKK, children (under age 12) 17 DKK; rides additional. (No entrance fee to the Christmas market.) Vesterbrogade 3. Phone for information: 33 15 10 01.

Walking tours are good ways to explore this compact, pedestrian-oriented city. The Copenhagen Walking Tour offers two-hour tours of the old city led by a locally residing U.S. guide. 20-35 DKK. May-September daily at 10:30 am, beginning at the Tourist Information Office, near the corner of Bernstrorffsgade and Vesterbrogade, by the Central Railroad Station. Schedule available at the tourist office, or call 32 97 14 40 for information. No reservations needed. Netto Boats offers canal tours May-September, departures every 20 minutes. 20 DKK. Tours depart from Holmens Church (opposite the Stock Exchange) and from Nyhavn Canal. Phone 31 54 41 02. (The more publicized Canal Tour is exactly the same as above, but costs 40 DKK.)

Christianshavn. An area south of the city center and separated from it by the inner harbor. One section, Christiania, has become well known as a center for free expression and, at times, a haven for runaways and drug users. Visitors will feel welcome as they stroll through during the day, but may feel uncomfortable at night when things become a bit wilder. Caution: Photographs are discouraged in the area called Pusher Street, where recreational drugs such as marijuana and hashish are openly offered for sale.

Carlsberg Brewery. Tour this world-famous brewery. After being guided through the various stages of beer making, sample the original-recipe Elephant Beer (twice as strong as Carlsberg's U.S. product). Tours Monday-Friday at 11 am and 2 pm. Free. Twenty minutes by bus from the city center. Ny Carlsbergvej 140, phone 33 27 13 14.

Tuborg Brewery. Guided tours, plus samples. This is the location of the largest beer bottle in the world. Tours Monday-Friday at 10 am, 12:30 and 2:30 pm. Free. Twenty minutes by bus from the city center. Strandvejen 54, phone 33 27 22 12.